In 2006, I finally came to my senses and got this job at Crutchfield. The amperage of the fuse should be equivalent to, or as close as possible to, the amplifier's current draw or onboard fuse. Then connect the ground wire from the car stereo black to one of the power supply's ground wires black and your radio will have power. Some receivers have three sets of outputs, some only two. You've read ppl warning about this idea for more than one reason. Or just from the speaker to the amp.
Older power supplies tend to fail a lot and ebay sellers don't always list the max current ratings so if you want to be sure, get a cheap, brand new power supply from newegg. The mids or hsk165 are 250w peak or 125w continuous. If they're directional cables, make sure that the arrows are pointing in the direction you're sending the signal from the source unit to the amplifier. But if I wire it 160 watts x 2 4 ohms I should run new speaker wires from the amp to the speakers? Saturday, Sunday and national holidays are not considered business days for delivery purposes. I want to add 2 subs on a mono amp and a 4 channel for the door speaker upgrade. When you replace the receiver and factory amplifier in some vehicles, you lose features like warning chimes, navigation prompts, and steering wheel controls, unless you employ a vehicle-specific digital interface device along with the factory amplifier left connected.
If you're bridging two channels, make sure they're bridged the same way. In some vehicles there's a plastic channel for the factory wires to run through. Next, remove the grommet from the firewall and cut an opening large enough for the power wire to pass through. It seems pretty difficult to get the new wiring through the doors cleanly. I have a 0 Gauge ground cable going from the Pioneer Amp and an 8 Gauge ground cable from the Kenwood amp both connecting to the same ground position on the body of my vehicle. If you bought your amplifier at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system.
The rest of your description indicates you're aware of what's involved and have a good plan for a successful install. He's running a head unit and a couple of speakers. This is noisy interference caused by the different paths each amps' power has to travel back to the battery's negative terminal. Then that harness plugs into your car. You guys are a great information source. That plugs into the car, which has all the wiring that connects to the speakers. The placement of my amps are found in permanent locations and i don't intend on moving them in order to compensate for the missing length of wire when removing the inline fuses.
As for the grounds - the rule of thumb is to ground your amplifiers to the same spot, so as to not encourage ground loops. Now in some systems with factory receivers and amplifiers this won't work because either the receiver shuts down because it doesn't see a speaker load on its output, or the Nav and Bluetooth audio originate in the car's computer system and never travel through the receiver's output wiring. You should be aware that this large a system in any vehicle will be a challenge to power. I'm running 4awg from battery with 100amp fuse to two dist blocks then splitting to one 4g to mono and one 8g to pdx. I plan on getting the kicker q's door speakers in components and coaxial already have the kicker q 12inch sub.
I'd wait until the vehicle's lights dim when the bass hits hard before installing any electrical upgrades - maybe you won't need any. The current amplifier renegade ren 1100 has an output channel. The model number and impedances are marked by the wiring terminals. Another way would be to get a line output converter along with your amplifier. In this setup, the two subs are wired together in parallel, and you would achieve the same results if you wired both subs to the amp separately.
Both of these amps equal 100amp, so i have a 100amp breaker at the battery. I took courses in radio and electronics as a teenager, and became a ham radio operator. He would still need to know the amperage draw of his amplifier, so he could calculate how long he could run the sub and how long it would need to recharge before being able to be used again, lol. If I recall, there is another pair of inputs on the back of the stereo and I would assume that's where they go if I need another pair. Your car's computer sends a digital data control signal to the factory amplifier which is necessary for normal operation. Then you can set the receiver outputs for a subwoofer and get the bass control you're looking for.
Not sure if that'll pose an issue! You may have found, for instance, that putting the subwoofer in a corner or a little bit closer to a certain wall produced much better acoustic effects. Normally, when you install a new stereo, all the wires from the stereo would connect to the car wiring adapter. Factor in 60% efficiency of amp and power conversion and that 650 output could go to 1500 watts from the wall. Checked over everything wiring , ground I'm not losing any volts14. I ran 0-gauge and installed a distribution block.