It is located with the ballast resistor on the firewall. Thats why all of our old 6 volt stuff is 12 volt now. If I do this, do I just hook up the original wires from the harness the same as before? Disconnect the connections at the ballast resistor. Trust me I'm 61 and was around working on this car although alot younger. Connect to the ballast resistor. Look at the first pic and note that the one wire red from the ballast resistor to the plug to the dist will be a full 12 volts because it is on the supply side of the resistor. Since the resistor lowers the overall current 3 volts, you want to use a coil that will not be bogged down by the lower current.
With the car running, that is reading 14v! Temporarily, I used that factory loom wire just to get it up and running. I am going to take the advice from others above and try to bypass the ballast and see if that works. This page supports my observation. I had starter rebuilt by local shop I do believe they kept it 6v. Be careful about Echlin or Accel distributor caps, though; many of them are ground off-centre and can cause carnage when the rotor—especially the longer special one—hits one of the improperly-ground, too-big cap contacts.
Also, how does it hook up to coil? Please forgive my lack of knowledge concerning 12 volt wiring systems. Not a particularly useful instructable. I hooked the wire from the fuse box directly to the input side of the gauge and jumped it to my oil pressure light. If there is no power there, replace the switch. Individual vs Common Ballast Wires Individual ballast wires each connect to a lampholder on one side of each tube. Note: Pat Conners wrote that wires 2 and 3 should go where 4 and 5 are, and vice versa.
Actually, my professional stereo installations have installers merge the wires instead of using T-taps. Sorry I cannot tell from your photo. Because cranking load will lower the battery voltage, the coil will see a somewhat reduced voltage. Be sure to install an inline fuse in this lead, and solder and shrink-wrap all the connections. How do I know if my mustang has a loom resistance wire or if I need to add a ballast resistor. Pull all those connectors off the ballast and let them hang there. This is how it is hooked up and is not running.
I am confused because the resistor is designed for the car, but it should only drop the voltage to +6-9V. When you hook up your system, check whether the distributor requires a ballast resistor. For some reason the link from the library doesn't work? If this does not work, the only thing left is the magnetic pickup in the distributor. With some 3 and 4- lamp series- parallel ballasts, if a single lamp in one branch fails, the lamp s in the parallel branch will continue to operate. Thats what I did on our Super W6. A ground wire from the power source should be connected to a light fixture.
Run a 16ga wire from this one to any decent ground. This may be a stupid question but how do I determine which wire should be number 1 on the distributor cap to ensure that is correct? The ignition module uses this information to determine when to fire the ignition coil. On most 1970-and-earlier vehicles equipped an external voltage regulator, there will be two wires providing key-on voltage to the coil. I thought it was supposed to go down! Looking at the front end wiring diagram I can't tell which wire goes to one side of the ballast resistor and where the other one goes to. Add a relay: If the ignition module any ignition module is starved for power, it'll work unreliably and it'll die prematurely. Once it is located on the firewall, connect the negative wire from the ignition to the terminals. When the starter is cranking the engine, the ballast resistor is bypassed by a contact in the starter solenoid, thereby allowing full voltage to the coil.
I am wondering if it should be the other way around since I read in other forms that reverse polarity will make it hard to start and not run well. The numbers on the ignition retrofit diagram are simply to provide a reference for dialogue. If you are showing no drop, then it's probably not there resistor. There is currently two wires on the right connection and two wires on he left connection that have a jumper wire. They will corrode, even if you cover them with electrical tape, and eventually the connection will degrade. Other times, its a metal block spliced in the middle of the wire somewhere and attached to an inside fender wall or there abouts, could be firewall, could be under the dash.
With the starter working the battery can only give 8volts, so the coil works perfectly to start the car. The fifth pin was only used on vehicles equipped with knock sensors. These coils are black, so if you peel off the label, they look similar to the factory piece. So if you have a classic car with missing ignition components, don't hesitate to replace the coil and ballast resistor yourself. The only other thing that needs to be assured is a proper module ground, but it's very difficult not to have this! How are you checking voltage ie.
. Another function of the control module is the management of the dwell circuit. Wherever you are, you can probably pull these out of wrecking yards all day long for very little money, and you can grab the watertight connectors for the coil and module while you're there. Now that my exchanged fuel sender is scheduled to be delivered on Saturday, I can get to work! When there is no flow, the pressure is equal throughout, but when flow occurs, pressure differentials must likewise occur. How to merge the wires: We recommend you use a wire stripper to expose the copper wire in a small slit without damaging anything. No wonder it was reading 14 odd volts. From what I am reading, it looks like you should disconnect the wire from the sol that delivers 12volts while cranking.
During starting the ballast wire is bypassed and the full 12V would go to the coil to make a hotter spark during starting. It's overkill and wastes power, not to mention creating a lot more heat than necessary in many situations. Dwell is the amount of time the primary circuit is closed to let current flow through the ignition coil between each spark. This is a current limiting resistor and you use Ohm's law or an online calculator to figure the value. Yep I remember that sound well too! I am not sure why it is falling all the way to +1V. Put a fuseholder in this wire as close as possible to your power takeoff point. This sounds completely unnecessary and a huge hassle to boot.