The Stanley 41 uses screw pressure to hold the blade in place, so the only advantage to a thick cutter would be in reducing chatter. From here on, the plane remained pretty much unchanged, except for variations in the trademarks and some subtle casting changes. This function is very useful for slicing beads from the wood so that you can use them to decorate whatever your mind can imagine. I've only noted one of these planes, a 5, with this lever cap. I have a few places I found for great wood deals, Justin Holden's is one of them.
The head has a flat on one side to be flush against the wall. However, this is one plane where it makes some sense to have the plane as light as possible. The common opinion of Stanley planes is that they were pitched as a compromise so they would cut softwoods well, and do some work on hardwoods. Type 8-9 Type 4-5 Types 9-10 Is the frog rib the enlarged and arched type? Some plane parts were frequently replaced by their owners, or are easily separated from the plane, such as irons, cap irons, knobs and totes, and lever caps. These should be redone properly with oil stones before you use them. A combination plane is one that can be fitted with different irons, or cutters, as Stanley called them, and be adjusted for a particular cut. The earlier knobs are prone to splitting about their base and are rather fragile.
That is why I didn't grade them a notch higher. Some woods are best moulded with nearly vertical scraper blades, such as in the and wooden scratch beaders. The chisel holder works well once you get the hang of aligning the chisel. It does not have the instruction sheet, but it does have the screwdriver. Not just the bevel, the entire top.
Getting started I've converted some of the plane dating information found in Patrick Leach's into an easy-to-use hypertext flowchart. The lateral lever is a one-piece construction, with its portion that engages the slot in the iron being straight across. On the main stock check that the cutter adjustment mechanism those later models that have them works easily and that the area of casting that holds it isn't cracked. I believe this to be the earliest since the earliest Bed Rock planes have lever caps of the same treatment Bed Rock lever caps always had some embossing on them, and the earliest ones have the japanned background. The frog has a slot at its bottom the portion nearest the mouth to fit over the rib cast in the bed. There are some examples of this plane that have iron cam rests, and I'm told that they are original to the plane. Many folks have no idea what the slitting cutter is used for, nor are they appreciative of what a clever and powerful little gizmo this thing is.
If you would like to go on my contact list send me an e-mail to Johnny at the domain name dot com I don't post a link as it cuts down on spam. Starting around 1915, a fine adjusting screw was provided for in the fence. It has a near full original iron. The tool is superb and it has the original early style instructions. As long as you prevent the stone from getting clogged with metal shavings the stone will get shinny. So you can read my web site and try it your self. The skates themselves must be adjusted so that the blade cuts slightly wider than the skates, otherwise as the plane works down into the wood it will bind like a saw without a set sawkerf.
It is held into place by screws with round heads. Some of the other comments are saying it isn't accurate. The same numbering system that was used on the 's cutters which see, if you're at all interested in that minutia was also used for the 45. It is a used but cared for rule, and not heavily used. I hope to add some new info soon.
The label is mostly gone from the blade box. Here again, some of the cutters were introduced later during the plane's lifetime. The box on the other hand has quite a bit of shop wear and is more like G+. There is one slight gotcha with the cam rest - it prevents the plane from cutting deeper into the wood on successive passes since it behaves just like a depth stop. For a short while, some models had a nickel plated appearance on them as a finish rather than the usual black japanning. Just a degree or so out of square can really cause issues with the chisel's cutting edge.
Aluminum isn't a very forgiving material. Only half the history and a magnet to the end of hours to settle to check. The body on this plane is much better than I normally see and is quite crisp. It is a sweetheart marked plane. Also, stanley type studies like this are most accurate for No. Where do you find new in the box door hinges from the 1920s? The wood is clearly old mut not original. If you set the cam rest's thumb screw so that it's tight enough to resist movement during use, but not tight enough that you can force it to move with your brute strength, you can avoid the hassle of loosening, positioning, and tightening it between successive passes.
It is in the original box, which is in decent condition. Where possible, the flowchart uses parts that were probably replaced less often, such as frogs, depth adjustment screws and lateral adjustment levers. Planes made by Stanley 1948-1961. Farnsworth Below you will find a tool for Stanley plane identification, specifically dating Stanley planes and identifying the type of your Stanley Bailey woodworking bench hand planes. Check for this damage by unscrewing the knob from the casting.
The edges are rough on some of them and will need grinding. This tool does not work for the Stanley Bedrock planes or transitional planes. Trying to be in a combination plane type is the earliest spokeshaves, 2 1880 91 ebay for stanley. When cutting wide grooves or wide rabbets, the sliding section is mandatory as it lends support to the wider cutters. Most of these planes in the hinged wooden box were made for the British market and are marked 55E, but this one is not one of those. Shop 104 liberty bell smooth plane identification and 3 planes in a general ball park for most popular planes. So the next class was more of a clinic to tune bench planes and show how to use them.