Dating Antique Bottles Dating Antique Bottles Many people are intrigued to know how old their bottle is. Use your loupe to look for a mold line. From this shoulder seam are two side seams that run up the neck and end below the top of the lip. There are 16 horizontal embossed rings going from the neck to the body transition, and at 4 places around the neck transition within the horizontal bands, a logo similar to a portly child holding an oversized baseball bat or perhaps some sort of hobo sack or even an over-sized bottle. Most often these marks are hidden on the inside of a shank on a ring, the inside of a bracelet, or on the inside back of an earring. In any case, I think your bottle is one of the earlier versions, made in the very early 1930s. I have inherited what seems to be a large-sized Owens Illinois Glass Company water bottle.
Of course the shape of the item and where you are holding it will effect the sound, but you can easily tell the difference. Base codes on Owens-Illinois amber glass handled jug, 1968 or 1969 date code, made at factory 14. The shape of the foot also can help determine age. If unsure about what the lip, rim, or finish of a bottle is, check the sub-page. As well as an enameled flower. That is because they all occured at different times and were caused by different pieces of grit. The history of Murano Glass began in 1291, when concerns about the risk of fire to the mainly wooden buildings of Venice lead to the many glass manufacturers there being ordered to move their premises to the small island of Murano, just off the coast of Venice, Italy.
I found this at the bottom of a lake in wisconsin! If you need more information on this diagnostic feature - including various images - click the following link: Close-up of the finish lip of an Illinois Glass Co. Just for a bit of info, check out this eBay keyword search I just did………. Hardware Another clue to age is the metal hardware. Most bottles with embossed lettering date from the late 19th century and later. They remind me of some Japanese prints.
Starting with , follow through the questions as suggested. Any clue what that may indicate? In general, and this is my own understanding……. It has a 1 over a 190 on the bottom as well as 1932 impressed on the bottom with considerable wrinkles in the glass from manufacturing of the jug possibly straw marks as I am not sure. Even knowing what to look for, it is difficult to detect the glue in ordinary light with the naked eye. Most free-blown bottle date prior to 1850 and can be much older. Early 1870's - Wildflower, Primrose, Princess Feather, Egyptian. By contrast, almost all new metal hardware is glued.
Like many industries making the leap from manual craftsman production to industrialization and automation, technological advances in bottle manufacturing were not immediately accepted by glass manufacturers or their workers. December 2011 Loads of pictures added to almost every section of the glass encyclopaedia this month, also new pages added for Finnish glassworks Humppila, German manufacturer Friedrich Kristall, and a whole new area for Italian Empoli glass, including pages for Empoli Verde glass and Empoli cased glass among others. Many British bottles are seen with 2, 3, or 4-digit numbers on the bottom which are style numbers. Pontil marks are only seen on handmade bottles. This, and no mold seams, is another indication of a hand-blown bottle. All turn-mold bottles are round in cross section and unless stained, will usually have a polished looking sheen to the glass surface.
First this cautionary note : Bottle dating is not a precise science! Gabe, normally a number positioned directly below the Owens-Illinois logo is a mold number. A related characteristic is the coarseness of the edges along the mold lines. Although the page is concerning the Owens-Illinois Glass Company, other bottle makers would have also complied with their guidelines for mark placement: Your bottle was made by Latchford Glass Company of Los Angeles. This is on the side of the bottle, near the bottom. T the left is a 7 and the right side is a 5. The colour and clarity of the metal, skill of execution, wear-marks etc.
The same bottle could have been recycled and reused many times for many years before finally being discarded - entire or broken Busch 1987. Are the edges of the piece pointed or showing signs of rounding. Many soda bottles especially of the 1910s to 1950s often have initials in large lettering on the bottoms. This makes some diagnostic characteristics better than others for dating. Nowadays, it is illegal to mine for jet, which makes the material extremely valuable.
Shown on this page are pictures of typical trademark variations used on their containers, especially during the early years. These bottles will not have the side mold seam proceeding from the upper finish side over and onto the rim itself. This page also shows how other portions of this website can provide information pertinent to the bottle in question. I will accept that, so consider myself corrected. Any info on this bottle would be greatly appreciated.
Very rare and valuable pieces of glass were hand made and decorated by highly skilled artisans. The older and more rare the piece of jewelry, the more valuable it will be. For example, some bottle types which were intended to be kept indefinitely like the early 20th century barber bottle pictured to the right were produced with the use of pontil rods leaving telltale pontil scars on bottles into at least the early 20th century. Just wondering if there would be any way to find out how many of these were made? But the colors are not identical. This means that glass made after 1918 should be referred to as 'Czech glass' rather than 'Bohemian glass', although to confuse matters, many items of glassware produced during the 1950's and later, bear labels that read 'Bohemia Glass' or 'Bohemia Crystal'. However, mold technology did not spring up all at once -- it evolved over a period of time.